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FAQ · 25 answers

Homelab Questions, Answered

The questions readers actually ask, answered plainly and without an agenda — bays, RAID, transcoding, power draw, and which NAS to buy.

Homelab & NAS FAQ

How many bays do I need?

Buy for the array you will grow into, not the one you have today. Two bays mirror to one drive of usable space; four bays with single parity give you three drives of space and survive one failure. Migrating a full array to a bigger box is a weekend you will not get back, so if you are between sizes, the six-bay now postpones the regret.

What is the best NAS for Plex or Jellyfin?

For a media server the deciding spec is the iGPU, not the badge. You want an Intel chip with QuickSync — an N100, N305, or Pentium-class part — that hardware-transcodes 4K without pinning the CPU. Most libraries direct-play and never transcode, but the moment a client needs a different codec, a CPU-only NAS falls over. Our configurator flags the transcode verdict for every unit.

Is RAID a backup?

No. RAID keeps you online through a drive failure; it does nothing about a deleted file, a ransomware run, a bad flash, or the NAS itself dying. Redundancy is uptime, not a copy. You still need 3-2-1: two more copies of anything you cannot re-download, one of them offsite.

CMR vs SMR — does it actually matter?

For a NAS, yes, decisively. SMR (shingled) drives overlap tracks to raise density, which makes random rewrites slow and can stall a RAID rebuild long enough to look like a failure. Use CMR (conventional) drives in any array. NAS-rated lines are mostly CMR, but check the exact model — some capacities in a family are SMR.

Do I need ECC RAM?

It depends on the filesystem and how paranoid you are about silent corruption. ZFS pairs best with ECC because it trusts RAM heavily; for a Btrfs or ext4 appliance holding media, non-ECC is fine and normal. If the data is irreplaceable and you run ZFS, ECC is cheap insurance — but it is not a hard requirement for a home media server.

What is hardware transcoding?

Transcoding is converting a video stream on the fly to a codec, resolution, or bitrate a client can play. Hardware transcoding offloads that to the CPU’s integrated GPU — Intel QuickSync being the common one — instead of grinding the CPU cores. It is the difference between several simultaneous 4K streams at a couple dozen watts and a stuttering mess.

Will an Intel N100 transcode 4K?

Yes — the N100’s integrated GPU handles 4K HEVC and H.264 hardware transcoding through QuickSync, comfortably enough for a couple of simultaneous 4K streams in Plex or Jellyfin. It is the reason the N100 became the default budget homelab chip. What it will not do is heavy CPU-bound work like a big Proxmox stack; for that you step up to an i3 or i5.

Synology vs UGREEN — which should I buy?

It is a maturity-versus-hardware trade. Synology’s DSM is the most polished NAS OS and its ecosystem is deep, but recent models push a first-party drive-compatibility list and the hardware is conservative. UGREEN’s UGOS is younger and rougher, but you get an iGPU, 10GbE, more RAM headroom, and no drive-lock for the money. If you value turnkey software, Synology; if you value hardware and no vendor lock, UGREEN.

Is Synology’s drive-lock real, and can I use any drive?

It is real on the models that enforce it: some newer Plus units restrict full functionality — health data, storage pools, some features — to drives on Synology’s compatibility list, which leans on their own branded drives. Older models and workarounds exist, but the trend is toward tighter locking. Our spec database flags a drive-lock column so you can filter it before you buy.

How much power does a NAS use?

A modern 2- to 4-bay NAS idles around 15–30 watts with drives spinning, and drives spend most of their life idle. Add roughly 5 watts per spinning drive under load. That idle number is the one that matters, because it runs 24/7 — at $0.16/kWh, 25 watts is about $35 a year. Our configurator prints total idle-watts and the annual cost for any build.

Do I need a UPS for my NAS?

Strongly recommended. A NAS writing to disk during a power cut can corrupt a filesystem or an in-flight array operation. A UPS gives you the seconds to ride out a blip and the minutes to trigger a clean shutdown over USB. It is cheaper than one bad rebuild, and every serious homelab runs one.

Sine-wave vs simulated (stepped) UPS — does it matter?

For a NAS with an active-PFC power supply, yes — pair it with a pure sine-wave UPS. Simulated / stepped-approximation output can make active-PFC supplies cut out or run rough on battery, which defeats the point. Sine-wave units cost a little more; on a NAS that is the version you want.

How many drives can I lose before data loss?

It is set by the RAID level. RAID 1 or RAID 5 survive one drive; RAID 6 survives two; RAID 10 survives one per mirror. During a rebuild a large array is at its most vulnerable, which is why dual parity (RAID 6) is the norm past six drives — a second failure mid-rebuild is not rare. And none of it is a backup.

2.5GbE vs 10GbE — is 10 worth it?

For most homelabs, 2.5GbE is the sweet spot: cheap, runs on existing Cat5e, and saturates a spinning-disk array anyway. 10GbE earns its cost when you move large files to an all-flash NAS, edit video off the server, or run NVMe cache — where 2.5 becomes the bottleneck. Buy 10 only where the storage can actually feed it.

What is a homelab?

A homelab is a small always-on computing setup you run at home — a NAS, a mini-PC or two, a managed switch — for storage, self-hosting, media, backups, and learning. It ranges from a single N100 box under a desk to a full rack. The point is owning your data and your services instead of renting them.

TrueNAS vs Unraid for beginners?

Unraid is the friendlier start: it mixes drive sizes, expands one disk at a time, and its app ecosystem is beginner-forgiving, at the cost of a license and non-striped performance. TrueNAS SCALE is free and built on ZFS, which is more disciplined and faster but wants matched drives and a bit more upfront learning. For a first DIY NAS, Unraid; for ZFS rigor, TrueNAS.

How much RAM do I need for self-hosting?

Start at 8GB for a light Docker stack — Pi-hole, a couple of *arr apps, a reverse proxy. 16GB is the comfortable homelab default and gives Immich, Home Assistant, and a media server room to breathe. Go to 32GB or more once you add VMs or a big database. If you run ZFS, remember it will happily use RAM for cache, so more never hurts.

Can I run Docker on a NAS?

On most modern x86 NAS units, yes — Synology, UGREEN, QNAP, TerraMaster and others ship a container manager, so the *arr stack, Immich, and Home Assistant run directly on the box. ARM-based budget units are more limited. If self-hosting is the goal, buy an x86 NAS with enough RAM, or a dedicated mini-PC to keep containers off the storage box.

What is 3-2-1 backup?

Three copies of your data, on two different media, with one copy offsite. The NAS is one copy; a second local target (an external drive or second NAS) is the second; a cloud or a drive at another location is the offsite. It survives a drive failure, a NAS failure, and a house fire — the three failure modes RAID alone does not.

How do I back up my NAS offsite?

Two common paths: a cloud target (Backblaze B2, a similar object store, or a NAS-native app) for a hands-off encrypted copy, or a second NAS at a friend or family member’s place syncing over a VPN. Encrypt before it leaves the house, automate it, and test a restore occasionally — an untested backup is a hope, not a backup.

Is shucking external drives safe?

Shucking — pulling the bare drive out of a cheap external enclosure — is a real $/TB hack, and the drives inside are usually CMR white-label units. The catches: you void the external’s warranty, some drives need a taped 3.3V pin to spin up in a NAS, and you gamble on the exact model inside. For cold storage and backups it is popular; for a primary array, weigh the warranty you are giving up.

What is the quietest NAS?

All-flash (NVMe) units like the Asustor Flashstor are effectively silent — no spinning platters, low heat, small fans. Among spinning-drive boxes, the quiet comes from a good fan (a Noctua swap helps), fewer drives, and drive spin-down when idle. If silence is the priority and $/TB is not, all-flash wins; otherwise pick a well-cooled 2- to 4-bay and quiet the fan.

How much does a starter homelab cost?

A credible first homelab runs roughly $500–1,000 all-in: a real 2- to 4-bay NAS or an N100 mini-PC, two to four CMR drives, a managed switch, and a UPS. You can start cheaper with a single mini-PC and one drive, but budget for the drives — they are usually the biggest line item. Our configurator prices a full build to your budget and use case.

Do I need a managed switch?

You need one the moment you want VLANs — segmenting IoT, guest, and lab traffic — or link aggregation and multi-gig uplinks. For a flat home network with a NAS and a few clients, an unmanaged multi-gig switch is fine. Most homelabbers end up wanting a cheap managed switch (a TP-Link SG108E or similar) once they start self-hosting.

What size UPS do I need for my NAS?

Size it to your load with headroom. Add up the NAS and drives (a 4-bay with drives is often 40–70 watts under load), the switch, and anything else on the UPS, then pick a sine-wave unit whose watt rating comfortably exceeds that. A 700VA unit covers a small NAS for a few minutes; a 1500VA sine-wave UPS is the common homelab standard. Our configurator sizes VA and estimated runtime for your build.

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